Today’s catch is one small corner of Virginia, seen without the powdered wigs. A brick facade that still carries the 1781 bombardment, mountain-bike trails running through one of the country’s earliest free Black settlements, a millpond that teaches its own history as spoonbread and yaupon tea, a museum of oyster tongs whose windows look out on boats still using them, and a tidal cypress river that has barely changed since 1607.