In 1904 Manuela de Pablo set up a wooden counter on Calle San Bernardo and sold ticket fractions to students. A century on, Administración nº 67 is where Spain queues — for hours, around the block — before the Christmas El Gordo draw, because this counter has sold more winning numbers than any other and belief compounds. The winning numbers it sold are still taped up in the windows, which is the whole argument in one glance.