Eighty-odd pushcart vendors once worked the corner of Essex and Ludlow; one shop is left, on Grand Street, and it still does it the old way — open barrels, lacto-fermentation, no preservatives and no pasteurisation. The menu is organised by how long a cucumber has slept in the brine, from the bright green snap of a New Pickle to the olive-drab Full Sour that takes months to go cloudy. The garlic steam hits before the door closes.