A narrow storefront on Somerville Avenue where the produce aisle has been replaced by a single kingdom: shaggy white lion’s mane, pink oysters the colour of a sunset, morels in season, plus tinctures, kits and mushroom art. The window is hand-painted with mushrooms, bees and a worm in white and red, which tells you before you open the door what kind of shop takes its subject this seriously and itself not at all.