Serifos sits between Athens and Sifnos in the Western Cyclades — wilder than its neighbours, with iron-mine ruins from the 19th century that local architects have been quietly restoring into houses. The fishing village of Livadi is the harbour; the Chora (whitewashed hilltown) sits a steep drive above. Wallpaper’s guide names the designers who’ve moved there. The “less-Mykonos” Cycladic island, for now.