Painter Guimi You, in Seoul for Frieze, sends visitors to a 120-year-old hanok in Bukchon where people still actually live, then to Hamgyeongdo Chapssal Sundae, a 24-hour blood-sausage-soup counter she’s loved since she was a student — dip the meat in salted fermented shrimp. She also swears by Namdaemun Market’s grilled fish alley and MMCA Deoksugung, the modern-art museum tucked inside an old palace where you might catch the changing of the royal guard.