One hundred and forty-two cubic metres is the whole of it, which makes this England’s smallest active parish church: a stone box in the hamlet of Wasdale Head, under Scafell Pike and near the shore of Wastwater. It opened with a handful of seats and an earth floor and now squeezes in thirty-nine. Local legend gives the ancient roof timbers to Viking longships, which is the sort of claim a valley whose Norse name means “valley of the water” has earned.