A four-star all-inclusive from the 1970s at Portinatx, on the quiet north end of the island, reopened by the Tulum group as 182 rooms terraced down to the water. The inventory is the tell: an 810-square-metre spa underground, a recording studio, a bazaar, a performance space modelled on an Escher drawing, and a shaman in residence. Confidence enough to call itself a temple, and a programme long enough to fill one.