The port town of Lakki on Leros is one of the most intact examples of Italian rationalist urbanism outside Italy — boxy dwellings and art-deco municipal buildings built as a Mussolini-era naval base, with de Chirico surrealist overtones, set among 18th-century windmills and a medieval castle. Still largely off the package-holiday circuit, it layers in the weight of a notorious 1958 psychiatric hospital alongside extraordinary architectural coherence.