Langosteria started on Via Savona in Milan in 2007 and has since attached itself to the addresses that flatter it — Cheval Blanc Paris, Porto Cervo, a mountaintop in St Moritz. London puts it in the former Old War Office with its own door on Whitehall Place, so you never enter through a hotel. Travertine and Italian walnut at the bar, Verde Alpi marble underfoot. Carlo Samarati designed it and died before it opened.