Man Hon Luk founded a record shop in 2007, ate at a Michelin-starred barbecue joint in Austin in 2021, and went home to learn the technique properly. He now starts smoking at 5am for up to twelve hours, then butchers at an open counter in a red Hackney Wick room: beef short rib under a caramelised Sichuan-peppercorn crust, five-spice ox cheek, smoked lap cheong in the mac and cheese.