Nicole Ma’s third Hoko, on Bethnal Green Road, is a Hong Kong bakery built from the material language of Hong Kong’s post-war housing estates — grids, mosaic tile, terrazzo, concrete — with a Ketley brick counter that nods to the Barbican. The small things carry it: plastic bread trays, orange bakery tongs, vintage blue melamine plates her mother sourced, and milk tea and egg tarts across the counter.